HOMEBOUND – Three months in Kenya.

When I left for Kenya on December 1, 2020 my return ticket was stamped for January 8, 2021. However, at the airport in Nairobi nearly three months later, my feet were dragging as I headed towards the gate. In those three months life was like it has always been with the freedom to roam, live, enjoy, smile, create and make memories of a lifetime. It is hard to believe that five years have passed since I lived there, so I think it is time to move back—more on that to come! 

Kenya is one of the most diverse African countries, with 42 tribes, over 40 wildlife reserves, multiple species, stunning deserts, and white sand beaches with turquoise water. The people are beautiful, resilient, friendly, heartfelt, and inspiring as they overcome all adversity. Kenya is ideal for the diversity of my work with African tribes and wildlife—my perfect paradise. I have been traveling there for 17 years, lived there for two, and still spend several months there each year. Yet, each visit is always exciting because the adventures are limitless; the more I explore, the more I discover. These past three months were no exception. 

NORTHERN KENYA

After a few days in Nairobi for business, Jonathan and I piled into the Landy and headed to Northern Kenya: the last frontier. There is absolutely no way to explain the raw beauty of the north and Lake Turkana, known as the Jade Sea. As you turn off the tarmac the adrenalin begins to pump; camel trains and donkeys transporting goods replace vehicles and motorbikes. The further you go the more dramatic the landscape becomes; in a flash you gasp as you come over the last ridge and get your first glimpse of Lake Turkana. Life is almost unchanged there. Unique to the area are the four tribes that live side by side in the same town: El Molo, Rendile, Turkana and Samburu

We spent a week visiting all our friends, meeting new ones, exploring, laughing, drinking cold Tusker, and living as though it were 2019! Turkana is a hot place and after a week of the suffering heat we decided to head to the mountain of Kulal. I had seen the Samburu warriors from this region for many years while attending the Turkana Festival and I wished to visit this area for years. It was paradise and I was not disappointed. 

SAMBURU

Samburu lies just north of the equator where everything changes and a new magic begins; different species are found north of the equator – another reason Kenya is uniquely special. Filled with large, iconic umbrella acacia trees in a stunning arid environment among the rich, red African soil, Samburu Reserve evokes the traditional vision of “I Dream of Africa.” As the wind blows through the stunning doom palms, one instantly knows they are in a magical place.Roaming through this primal land, unique to this area, are the rare and exotic Grevy’s Zebras, reticulated giraffes, Oryx, red soil–stained red elephants, maneless lions and Somali ostrich.In the stillness of what seems like an empty place, one might hear the rustle of brush as a cheetah or leopard makes himself or herself known. In stark contrast to this dry, barren landscape, wanders the vivid, semi-nomadic colorful Samburu tribe

I have been visiting the villages in Samburu for 17 years! A broad smile and goose bumps appear as I type this. I have watched boys become warriors; warriors become men and get married, having children, and becoming Jr. elders. 

We passed through Samburu several times over these past three months because it is a main gateway to the North. Most times we stayed with friends having a traditional African BBQ and sharing our stories around the fire with a cold tusker in hand, creating new memories and sharing our dreams for the future. 

On our first trip up to the north I stayed at one of my favorite camps for a few nights to see and experience the health protocols put in place during COVID. I give them a 10+. 

MAASAI MARA

The renowned Maasai Mara needs no introduction; it is the playground for every wildlife photographer around the globe! Most of us make it here at least once a year, especially during the time of the migration, and usually more than once. The saying between us is, “there is never enough time in the Mara and the Mara never disappoints!”

We, as nature “lovers,” know the climate IS changing. Noticeably in 2015, the patterns of the rains in Africa started shifting. When I arrived during Christmas the grasses were unusually high, but perfect for my 400 2.8 and the creative images I produced. The skies were crazy dramatic and the adventurous drive through the storms made that week in the Mara even more exciting! 

During our time there Jonathan and I visited our favorite camps to inspect the COVID health protocols, all receiving a 10+; the safari camps, as always, have stepped up to the plate going beyond to ensure everyone’s safety. Many have extended their common areas creating more beautiful spaces in the camp that we will all get to enjoy for years to come. 

AMBOSELI

Most renowned for the images of giraffe or elephants at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro, Amboseli takes your breath away because it is one of the most beautiful ecosystems in Africa. Water comes from the top of the mountain to form waterways and swamps in the middle of Amboseli National park. Each day herds of zebra, elephants, and wildebeest make their way to the swamp. I have witnessed up to almost 1,000 elephants in the swamps in one day. It is a place known for the dust, light, and dust devils that dance across the open plains. Although lions and cheetahs are seen often, this is a place where fine art photographers go for stunning African environmental wildlife photographs.

Amboseli sits along the southern border of Kenya and Tanzania and is on Maasai land, which is another reason; it is so special to me. It will always remain one of my favorite reserves in the whole of Africa. Being only four hours from Nairobi I try to make it there several times a year. It is always easy to come up with an excuse as to why I must race out there to visit friends and photograph the wildlife!

TSAVO

One of the oldest, largest, and wildest parks in Kenya, Tsavo is full of history. It is renowned for its large herds of elephants, including some of the last super tuskers. The landscape is raw, wild and captivating. Being one of the largest parks and least populated it remains one of the most pristine wildlife experiences in Kenya. It is also here where the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust has several stockades; they take the elephant orphans here when they are ready to be reintroduced to the wild. Visiting stockades like Ithumba is an incredibly special exclusive experience where you are able to interact with the young elephants.

Hoping in the Landy and driving out to Tsavo is a rare treat! Although I am there each year with my guest, I am usually flying in. I love long hours on the road driving through the beauty of Kenya. Exploring deeper into this incredible area was exciting and inspiring. New and interesting plans are happening here.

For those of you who enjoy good Hollywood movies about Africa try “The Ghost and the Darkness,” with Michael Douglas and Val kilmer. It is a true story about the railway built in Tsavo in the late 1890’s and the famous man eating lions. If you liked “Out of Africa,” I am pretty sure you will enjoy this movie: one of the many reasons Tsavo is famous and rich in African and Kenyan history.

ALL THE OTHER GREAT PLACES.

What is really great about Kenya is that there are always new and exciting adventures happening in the country. I have been filled with new ideas for the years to come.

One of the main reasons for my trip was to experience what it was like to travel during COVID-19.  I visited all the areas and camps I use in my safaris so that I could see how they have been so successful in operating safely. Besides, I knew I would feel safer in Kenya (you can read about that here). Just as I put a lot of time with my boots on the ground scouting and visiting new locations before offering it in an itinerary, I wanted to understand the safety and challenges traveling abroad during COVID before I brought clients with me.  

I know many of you will have question and I want to answer them confidently from my own experience.

I am really looking forward to seeing many of you very soon!